Bringing a new pet home for the first time is an exciting, memorable experience. There are some things to keep in mind when introducing your newest family member into your existing home environment, especially if you already have other pets living with you.
If possible, find a neutral, outdoor, fully fenced space—an area that neither dog has “claimed” through frequent visits or walks. The space should be quiet with no other dogs or people, like the backyard of a friend who doesn’t have pets or a park during off hours when no one is there.
Unfortunately, this isn’t always possible, so the next best option is an outdoor space with enough room for the dogs to roam on-leash as they get to know one another. If outdoor space isn’t available, opt for a large garage or basement.
Put away anything that might cause a scuffle—like dog toys, bones, beds, and even empty food bowls. Consider everything, including objects that don’t seem to interest your dog. An old bone might suddenly become valuable again if your new dog takes an interest in it.
Since the dog introduction process begins with both dogs on-leash, you’ll need a partner that understands canine body language to help out.
Watch the dogs for happy, waggy body language and interest in one another without hard stares, tense postures, freezing in place, or a lowered or tucked tail.
Look for signs that one dog is trying to get away, which are often missed or misinterpreted. If your dog runs over to you, don’t send them back “into the fire” because this is usually an indication that your dog needs a break from the interaction.
If you’re not comfortable with how the dogs are interacting during this first step, or you’re unsure of what your dogs’ behaviors mean, enlist the help of a trainer during the introduction process.
After introducing a new dog, the next step is parallel walking with both dogs. They should be far enough apart that they’re aware of each other, but not so close that they fixate on trying to reach one another.
Walk both dogs in the same direction with a comfortable buffer of distance between them (this will vary by dog). Then, turn back and trade places with the other dog-human team so that each dog has a chance to scent where the other dog walked.
Allow the dogs to investigate potty spots, since urine-sniffing is one of the ways dogs pick up information about other dogs. Both handlers should remain calm and keep their grip on the leashes as loose as possible.
If both dogs are offering relaxed, social behaviors towards one another, gradually decrease the distance between them while continuing the parallel walking. Don’t allow a direct face-to-face approach as the dogs get closer, since head-on is a stressful and unnatural way for dogs to meet.
If you feel comfortable with how the dogs are interacting, return to an enclosed area, drop the leashes, and allow them to interact. Give the dogs a few minutes to sniff one another while praising their calm interactions, and then encourage the dogs to continue moving with you for a final, brief walk together.
At this point, the dogs might continue sniffing to learn more about each other, or they might begin playing. Look for the universal dog invitation to connect: a play bow where dogs put their elbows on the ground and rear end in the air.
As the dogs play, watch for the signs of a respectful interaction: a mutual give-and-take with pauses in the action.
After you introduce your new dog to your resident pet, you can introduce your new dog to your home.
Instead of bringing both dogs inside right away, you should have a helper take your resident dog for a stroll. Then give your new dog a chance to check out his new living space alone.
Keep an eye on your new dog as he investigates. When he’s checked everything out, bring him to an open area of your home, away from the front door. Cramped spaces can lead to jockeying for position and accidental scuffles.
Once again, pick up any dog toys, treats, beds, prized possessions, or food that could create tension between the dogs. Then you can have your helper bring your resident dog inside.
Try to keep your household calm as the dogs acclimate to one another. Don’t throw a “welcome to the family party” on the first day home.
Maintain your resident dog’s typical daily schedule, and try to set aside one-on-one time with each dog, like going for solo walks.
Always be aware of signs of brewing tension between your dogs, like low growling, hard stares, and body blocking. If you notice any of these signs, you should intervene immediately.
Separate the dogs and direct their attention to something else. Give them a break from one another for at least 20-30 minutes before allowing them to engage again.
Here are some more important tips for keeping the peace after introducing dogs:
Always separate your new dog and resident dog during mealtimes. You can either place their bowls in different rooms or use a dog gate to separate them.
If one dog finishes first, don’t allow him to hover as the other dog eats. To prevent tension, you should keep them apart until both dogs have licked their bowls clean. Always pick up the bowls after feeding time.
Some dogs are possessive of their resting spaces, so watch to make sure both dogs are acting appropriately around their beds. Even if a bed is big enough for both dogs to share, it’s a good idea to get a different bed for your new dog.
Introduce toys back into the house slowly after the first introduction rather than bringing out the entire toy chest right away. Always supervise your dogs when they are trying out a new toy.
Look for playful interactions without signs of guarding, like standing over the toy or snapping at the other dog if he gets too close to it.
Alone time is an important aspect of the getting-to-know-you process. Whether you’re leaving the house for the day or just taking a shower, always separate your dogs when you can’t watch them. This obviously keeps them safe, but it also provides them with downtime apart from one another.
In the long-term, it is always wise to supervise them together and separate them when no one is home. This will keep everyone safe and interactions more positive.
Many dogs don’t understand when to say “when,” particularly if they’re having a good time together.
But that nonstop play can tip over into inappropriate behavior when dogs get overtired. Giving your dogs a break from one another allows them to relax and regroup.
Create spaces for each dog so that they can be separated—either in different rooms or behind a dog gate. Dogs needs a break from their housemates, just like all of us do.
It can take months before your new dog and resident dog mellow into true comfort with one another, so have patience with them as they get used to sibling-hood.
Always acknowledge positive interactions between your dogs and enjoy watching the lifelong friendship bloom.
If you’re thinking of getting a cat for your dog or a dog for your cat, it’s important to consider both animals’ personalities. It may be helpful to look for a companion that has already been exposed to the other species in the past.
If a dog attempts to aggressively chase, pin, pick up or otherwise “manhandle” any cat, it is best to not even consider getting a cat — or at least to proceed with caution. Additionally, a dog who growls, lunges at or obsessively barks at a cat would probably do best in a cat-free environment. Likewise, a cat who growls, swats at, runs from or hides from dogs would probably prefer to not live with a dog.
If a dog loves chasing things, then a fearful, shy cat who runs away probably wouldn’t be the best choice, as it could trigger the dog to chase. Similarly, an energetic cat who runs and pounces would fall into this same category. A better match here would be a calm, confident cat who will not run (in fear or play).
If a dog plays roughly, it is best to avoid kittens or elderly cats who can easily be hurt. Instead, stick to playful adults who are interested in play, but are also confident enough to take care of themselves. If a cat is rambunctious or playful, a dog that is playful, but gentle, could be a great option.
If a dog or cat is elderly, laid back, quiet or anxious, then a calm counterpart would be best. Avoid rambunctious companions who may annoy, frighten or otherwise bother the other pet.
1. Choose the proper location for the first meeting
Resident cat to new dog: If you are adopting a dog, you should NOT take your cat to meet him at a shelter, or other establishment which houses a number of animals for health and safety reasons. Instead, the introduction should take place at home.
Resident dog to new cat: If you are adopting a cat, do NOT take your dog into a shelter and expose him to the cats, as this can be highly stressful or traumatic for all of the cats. Also, it is not necessarily a good indicator of how the dog will react at home. Instead, ask the shelter’s adoption counselors whether they have any dog-savvy, confident cats they will allow to meet your dog under controlled conditions. If this is not possible, an alternative would be to have your dog meet a dog-savvy cat who belongs to a friend or relative. As a last resort, you can bring your new kitty home and do an introduction at home.
2. Separate the animals
Across a few days, rotate which animal has freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent.
Sometimes the dog should be confined to a crate or another room (or taken to another location if he can’t be left alone) to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate the smell of the dog.
If the dog obsessively digs at the separation barrier or barks at the cat for more than a day or two, the interaction likely won’t work without proper training. You may need the help of a professional.
When no one is home, the dog or cat must always be securely confined so unsupervised interactions are not possible.
Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally, you can proceed to the next step.
3. Make leashed introductions
Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed. Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat, and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally.
If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part, stay at step 2 longer. Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other. When no one is home, the dog or cat should be securely confined to separate areas so unsupervised interactions are not possible.
4. Allow unsupervised interactions
Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you are positive they will not hurt each other.
If the dog stares at the cat or the door separating the cat, try to distract him and get him to look away with treats, a happy voice or by gently guiding the dog away on a leash. Once the dog is away from the cat, try offering a treat. If he takes it, repeat this process until he is no longer focused on the cat or door.
If the dog remains overly focused, does not take his eyes off the cat or the door, completely ignores you or lunges suddenly as soon as the cat moves, this is probably a dangerous match. If you are looking for a dog for your resident cat, try another dog. If this is your dog, you should probably not get him a cat.
If at any time the dog lunges toward, growls, snaps at or shows any aggression toward a calm, quiet, still cat, this match will probably not work out. The same holds true if a cat attacks a calm, quiet dog. If you are committed to make the relationship work, you will probably need a professional at this point.
If you are looking for a cat for your dog, and your dog displays questionable behavior around a cat who is growling, hissing and swatting, try again with another, calmer cat. If he continues to display questionable behavior around multiple cats, it is likely he should not live with cats.
If it is your cat who is growling, hissing or swatting, give the cat a break and try again on another day. You might also need to try a different dog. A cat who continually hisses and growls at all types of dogs will likely not want to live with dogs. Your cat may tolerate a dog, but she probably won’t be happy — which is an unfair situation for her.
If the cat stops eating, drinking, using the litter box or visiting with family members, she is not happy. You might want to consider finding a better match or contacting a professional animal behaviorist for advice.
The first impression a new cat makes when she meets your resident cat is critical. If two cats display aggression during their first meeting, this may set the mood for their future relationship. For this reason, it’s best to separate your resident cat from your new cat when you first bring her home so that you can control their initial meeting.
The two cats should be able to smell and hear—but not see or touch—each other. Each cat should have her own food and water bowl, litter box, scratching post, bed, etc. Feed the cats near the door that separates them so they learn that coming together (even though they can’t see each other) results in a pleasant experience. In addition to regular cat food, feed the cats extra-special treats near the door as well, like tiny pieces of tuna, salmon, cheese, chicken or liver.
After two to three days, switch the cats’ locations so they can investigate each other’s smell. This also allows the new cat to explore a different section of your home. Some behaviorists suggest rubbing the cats separately with the same towel to intermix their scents. First gently rub one cat with the towel. Then rub the other cat. After the towel carries both cats’ scents, bring the towel back to the first cat and rub her with it again. After a few more days, play with each of the cats near the door. Encourage them to paw at toys under the door. Eventually the cats may play “paws” under the door with each other.
After a week or so, assuming that you see no signs of aggression at the door (no hissing, growling, etc.), you can introduce the cats to each other. One method is to replace the door with a temporary screen door so that the cats can see each other. If you can’t use a screen door, you can try using two baby gates positioned in the door jam, one above the other.
Ask a friend or family member to help you with the introduction. Have one cat and one person on each side of the door, and start the introduction by setting each cat down a few feet away from the screen or gates. When the cats notice each other, say their names and toss treats to them, aiming the treats behind them. Over the next few days, continue to encourage feeding, eating treats and playing near the barrier, gradually offering the cats’ meals, treats and toys closer to the screen.
The next stage is to permit the cats to spend time together without a barrier between them. Supervise these initial face-to-face interactions carefully.
It’s good to bring the cats together when they are likely to be relatively calm, such as after a meal or strenuous play. Keep a squirt bottle handy in case the cats begin to fight. As the cats become more familiar with each other, allow them longer and longer periods of time together. If one cat spends most of her time hiding, or if one cat continuously harasses and pursues the other, please consult a professional.
If you’re bringing a new cat into a household with multiple cats, introduce each resident cat to the newcomer individually. After each of your cats has met the new cat one-on-one, you can start to allow all of the cats to mingle as a group.
Your cats will be more likely to get along if they’re happy in their environment. Look at the layout of your home. Make sure there are plenty of hiding spots for your cats. Some like to sit up high, on shelves and on kitty condo perches. Frightened cats, on the other hand, tend to hide under and behind things, so make sure you provide spots at floor level as well. Place food, water and litter boxes out in the open so your cats don’t feel trapped when they access these resources. Make sure you have a litter box for each cat, plus at least one extra.